Mindset

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How To Wipeout

How to Survive a Wipeout with Nathan Florence Obliteration.  Carnage.  Aquatic car accidents.  Wipeouts. Get used to copping a beating, because it’s an unavoidable part of being a surfer. We all aim to progress, to push boundaries, and to expand our comfort zones in the surf.  Progressing right along with our upward trajectory is the […]
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Fear and Surfing

How To Overcome Surf Fear

Fear, Surfing, and Skill Expansion How To Overcome Surf Fear Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway. Fear is healthy. It is a necessary part of expanding our comfort zones and pushing boundaries. It’s an inherent part of the process when discovering what we are truly capable of. It can also be paralyzing, culminating in […]
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Laws of Training, Longevity, & Health

Training, Longevity, & Health The Laws of your body, and more importantly the process of adaptation.  That’s all  life is really, a process of adaptation.  Ability, willingness, and assimilation of new “stuff” in life, and adapting to it.  That’s health, it’s your fitness, it’s your relationships, so adhere to the laws. Laws: that word doesn’t quite […]
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Foundations For Athletes, Humans, Surfers

MASTER THE BASICS – SQUAT, PUSH, MAINTENANCE A couple of years ago I made some videos about stretching “for surfers” and threw them up on youtube.  I wrote a few blog posts, filmed a few more videos, threw them on the internet, kept on doing it, and here I am a few years later getting […]
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SCIENCE VS. THE WOO

The woo.  I figured it was about time I share my two cents on the woo.  I’ll get to the woo in a second, but first you’ve got to consider the internet. The internet, it’s an intensely strange thing.  It’s had an absolutely transformative impact on how humans communicate, how information is shared, framing societal […]
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Moderation

 Life Balance… Zen Balance.  Ying and Yang.  Black and White (like the cookie episode from Seinfeld).  Vegans and Pro-meat consumption.  Opposing forces…. I’m getting deep!  I view extremism of any type to be detrimental.  Religion, nutrition, training, tv-watching, poker, yoga, damn near anything can hold negative consequences if over consumed or used.  Except for surfing! […]
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Epic 2ft Surf

My Most Memorable Surf in Oz I had one of those surreal surf sessions today.  I’m not one to heavily romanticize surfing and get overly dramatic about it.  I do completely realize how absolutely fun it is, how much I enjoy the shit out of being in the water, and understand the relevance and importance of […]
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World Record Wave

That Wave Is Massive So it seems that there’s a new contender for an officially surfed world record wave.  Big wave surfer Garrett McNamara surfed what some are touting as a 90ft wave off the coast of portugal. That thing is an absolute beast…. a world record wave  The skills, athleticism, and shear balls to […]
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Surfers = Athletes?

If you’re a surfer, you’re an athlete.  You can train to improve your athleticism.  You can train to be a better surfer. What makes an athlete?  Is a surfer an athlete?  How about a kite-surfer, or wakeboarder?  What qualifies someone as an athlete, and what specific traits deem someone to be considered athletic?  This is […]
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